Diving the 'Horse Shoe' Volcanic Formations

Approaching the 'Horse Shoe' formations

My return to Tenerife coincides with diving, it's all I seem to think about when I'm there. It acts as a relaxation method and the serenity when underwater is both unusual and unique; the only similar experience is when riding my motorbike, and these two activities are what give me spiritual peace - although biking is the marginal winner! I took the earliest opportunity to contact Enrique at Sa Caleta Dive Centre, a warm hug and handshake the usual greeting. I booked the dives for Tuesday and was out on the boat by 10:00am. The weather was overcast, and the usual sunlit seascapes would be duller and more shadow(y) as a result, but this has its own advantages as sometimes creatures that would stay hidden during brighter conditions come out. The location was to be the 'horse shoe' volcanic rock formations off the coast of Palm Mar. Palm Mar is a 'resort' (I use the term very loosely) situated away from the mainstream tourist locations, and it therefore more quiet, people who buy properties here want peace and quiet and a more Spanish idyllic lifestyle. The 'horse shoe' formations are pretty much as their name suggests, large 'U' shaped volcanic rock formations under the water, they run in a line and are are steep sided and popular with divers. I have noticed that there are many formations are similar to the Giant's Causeway back home, itself a result of volcanic activity, and the situations that caused its formation must have been similar, if not identical to the Canary Islands; that is rapid cooling of volcanic lava by sea water to form 'columns' of rock.  

An octopus (centre of picture) makes its escape

At first the dive was somewhat uneventful, nothing but a few Bream swimming about curiously to look at, but after leaving the 6-7m depth (where I had knelt on a Sea Urchin lodging 4 spines into my left kneecap) over 20m there was more activity to see. There were Damsel Fish, brilliantly coloured, guarding their individual sites, darting towards anything (including me) that got within a dangerous range. They seem fearless and are clearly devoted to their cause! The 'knooks' and 'crannies' usually provide a wealth of sea life, and there was a large eel, complete with spiked teeth, turning its head sideways to enable its large eye to keep watch on us, in the distance a young Sting Ray swam obliviously around, disturbing the sandy patches of the sea floor in its search for food. I have noticed that the Sea Urchin population seems to be increasing rapidly; large sections of the (rock) sea floor seem to be covered in this black spiked 'carpet'. I have fallen victim to their spines on more than one occasion, but I am unsure whether this is a good or bad sign for the island's ecology.

Wrasse and Bream feast upon Sea Urchin[s]

Overall, though, the waters seemed relatively lifeless; there were shoals of fish, but there were no significant numbers of Rays, Turtles or Dolphins, perhaps as a result of the currents or the cooler temperatures, but the variety of sea life here was stark by its absence. By now I was approaching 50bar in my tank, and the swim back to the anchor line commenced. But it was on this return journey that we encountered an octopus, quite large (approximately 50-60 centimetres in length) perched on top of a rock. At first it kept quite still, observing the divers around it in reciprocated curiosity before darting off in a puff of ink away from prying eyes. At the anchor location, there was a feeding frenzy; mainly of Ornate Wrasse and Striped Bream, feasting on Sea Urchins. They swarmed to the food, now not caring about the divers in their midst! It felt like revenge for my stinging left knee (not exactly good Karma, but I couldn't help but think it!). The skies had cleared on my return to the surface and the sun felt good on my salt covered skin. Once back in the dive centre and with the equipment cleaned, I immediately booked two further dives - for Friday 12th and Saturday 13th June, alas after that it will be too close to my flight home to go diving again (I have had mild Bend on a plane home, it is an experience I never wish to repeat). The locations are uncertain, a lot depends on the weather, currents, number of divers etc, s this vagueness adds to the excitement - there's nothing like not knowing where you are going to add to a sense of adventure!