It’s been a while since there was a proper run out on the bikes, but on 7th April, plans were made to head to Glenveagh National Park, Co. Donegal. It’s an area I’ve never been to before and apparently one of breathtaking beauty...and it didn’t disappoint! I left Belfast early in the morning to get up to Derry in good time. A warm cup of brown was much needed on arrival as although the sun was out, it was still fresh and we duly shot the breeze as we waited for the other bikers to arrive, including Joe the Mod and Johnny the Funk (good names you’ll agree!).
We went on the bottom tier of the bridge over the Foyle, which always reminds me of American bridges for some reason, and headed towards Letterkenny. The roads open up magnificently once you’re out of Derry, and the long straight roads with plenty of undulations offer a great chance to open the throttle hugging the hill beside the Foyle River. The countryside rolls beside you, with the trees and inhabited environment giving way to those shades of brown and beige – to my mind this part of Ireland isn’t so much green as those mountainous shades of brown that give that impression you are somewhere a bit wild. After travelling quickly on the N (or National) roads, we were quickly into single lane roads that were winding their way through truly indigenous country. The mountains surround you and you can feel the winds pick up – swaying you occasionally and you quickly have to correct the movement. Large boulders outcrop from the long grasses and heathers as you sweep left and right and you get the impression that this is an area untouched by man. The smells are interesting, not so much floral and fragrant, but ‘grassy’ if that makes sense. I got the impression that I was on a ribbon of tarmac in a prehistoric landscape, and this is an area that is used for backdrops when they (the BBC) filmed the dinosaur shows that were on a while ago, so my impression wasn’t all that outlandish.
My new Shark helmet performed superbly, although I have taken to wearing ear plugs just to cut down on some wind noise – I find over long journeys it means I’m not as tired by the end of it. Plus the internal sun visor was particularly useful whenever you came over a crest and there was a lake in front of you, with the sun glinting of the water surface.
We turned a corner and a sign greeted us to let us know we were in the boundary of the National Park – and it felt like it for some reason. There were forests and woods that punctuated the harsh barren landscape which gave an interesting juxtaposition. Even the sky seemed to open up it a freeing limitlessness.
We went on the bottom tier of the bridge over the Foyle, which always reminds me of American bridges for some reason, and headed towards Letterkenny. The roads open up magnificently once you’re out of Derry, and the long straight roads with plenty of undulations offer a great chance to open the throttle hugging the hill beside the Foyle River. The countryside rolls beside you, with the trees and inhabited environment giving way to those shades of brown and beige – to my mind this part of Ireland isn’t so much green as those mountainous shades of brown that give that impression you are somewhere a bit wild. After travelling quickly on the N (or National) roads, we were quickly into single lane roads that were winding their way through truly indigenous country. The mountains surround you and you can feel the winds pick up – swaying you occasionally and you quickly have to correct the movement. Large boulders outcrop from the long grasses and heathers as you sweep left and right and you get the impression that this is an area untouched by man. The smells are interesting, not so much floral and fragrant, but ‘grassy’ if that makes sense. I got the impression that I was on a ribbon of tarmac in a prehistoric landscape, and this is an area that is used for backdrops when they (the BBC) filmed the dinosaur shows that were on a while ago, so my impression wasn’t all that outlandish.
My new Shark helmet performed superbly, although I have taken to wearing ear plugs just to cut down on some wind noise – I find over long journeys it means I’m not as tired by the end of it. Plus the internal sun visor was particularly useful whenever you came over a crest and there was a lake in front of you, with the sun glinting of the water surface.
We turned a corner and a sign greeted us to let us know we were in the boundary of the National Park – and it felt like it for some reason. There were forests and woods that punctuated the harsh barren landscape which gave an interesting juxtaposition. Even the sky seemed to open up it a freeing limitlessness.
We pulled into the car park in the National Park and the banter quickly began. This is what these little trips are all about for me, yes there is the biking (most importantly), but there is also the craic. Once of the bikes the piercing cry of a bird of prey was overhead, I was reliably told that it was a buzzard – although Glenveagh is the location that the Golden Eagle was and is being reintroduced to Ireland. I tried to get a picture, but it was a speck against the blue sky unfortunately. We walked up a tunnel of trees – Willow I think – to grab a bite to eat and a coffee where the craic continued. We soon hit the road again, I was initially unaware of our destination, but didn’t really care. We were on a road laid neatly onto the undulations of a mountain, and soon came over a crest to see a valley and lake below, with the road steeply diving to meet them, the corners were sharp and in many places off camber which added to the challenge as you tried to take in the sheer beauty of your surroundings. I think the road was the R251 beside Lough Nacung with the road going through the Derryveagh Mountains. We turned northwards towards Ballyness Bay, heading towards Dunfanaghy – another exceptionally picturesque location. Again, there is a wild feel to the place with Muckish Mountain on your right rising out of the landscape with a long flat top (I’m wary of using a Table Mountain analogy!). I think there are bird reserves here, as you pass many pools and lakes (Derryreel Lough, Columbkille Lough, Purt Lough and New Lake) before finally arriving at Dunfanaghy Bay, as the bikes past and the exhaust noise is amplified by the occasional high hedge you see all sorts of things starting to take off from the reeds, and when I downshifted two gears, there is an occasional ‘pop’ on the overrun.
This place has a special place in my heart for personal reasons, and it will always be special – I knew we were coming into the town, but I had no idea just how wide my grin would become as I started remembering why the place was so special to me. A text to my better half once off the bikes to let her know where I was and reminisce was the first thing I wanted to do. The headland stretches out like an arm protecting the cove and the waters always seem so calm. The aesthetics are postcard perfect, which is what the town relies on now to attract visitors. We pulled out of the small harbour to head along the road east. The dunes are on your left and sweep down to a huge expanse of sand, and the tidal range for the whole bay must be epic. You can see horse riders galloping across the sands and grand houses on the headland overlook the entire scene, I couldn't help but think on a winter's night, with a wood burning stove or fire lit, and that view, it must be a lovely place to be!
It was starting to get slightly overcast as we headed back to Derry, coming back the route we had came, but with the clocks going forward, there is more daylight in the day, which for me was most welcome. My journey back home was a cold one, with plenty of snow still lying on the Glenshane Pass and the roads leading up to it, the temperature drop was noticeable, and even with the heated grips, I found I was cold. I was glad to get home to lie on the sofa with the heating on and, in truth, a hot water bottle lying on my chest. I guess I overestimated the strength of the sun! The bike was safely put under its cover and I can’t wait to unwrap it for the next trip. With (hopefully) the better weather upon us, they should definitely be more frequent.I took some video footage on my little clip on video camera - something I still find I am getting to grips with, but I think it gives a jist of the journey - as well as showing off some of the spectacular scenery:http://www.youtube.com/user/MoorsoP
