Tuesday 27 October 2015

Monday 26 October 2015

Samhain Approaches - And Meath Beckoned

Samhain marks the end of the summer season and harvest and the beginning of winter or the ‘darker half’ of the year, lying between the Autumn Equinox and the Winter Solstice it is now associated and known as Halloween. It potentially also marks one of the last opportunitues to get away on the bikes for the weekend; salt will soon be added to the roads and the nights are drawing in at an alarming rate. As with most mythical and mythological cycles, Meath seems to be an appropriate destination to coincide with them, and in the gloom of late October, we duly set off. This time, though, a hostel was booked as without the proper equipment, it's a little cold to camp!
Samhain is also supposedly the Celtic pagan New Year, the word is thought to be derived from the Irish samhradh (summer) so that Samhain means ‘summer's end’. It was seen as a liminal time when fairies and other spirits could more easily come into the physical world; these spirits and fairies were known as the Aos Sí - in Irish Aos Sí means ‘people of the mounds’ (the mounds are known in Irish as the ‘sídhe’ from which is derived, hence it is no coincidence that many sites associated with ancient ritual, burial and religion are mounds). Due to the belief that mounds are where these supernatural race are believed to have retreated, they were also known as the Síth (which is probably where Star Wars got that derivative from!). With the doorways to the otherworld supposedly open at Samhain and through these mounds, it is the opposite of the summer festival of Beltane (which was for the 'living') and was, essentially, a 'festival of the dead'. Although modern Halloween is a complete skew and bastardization of any pagan festival! There are two main sites that are associated with Samhain; Tlachtga (Hill of Ward) and the Hill of Tara. At the latter the Mound of Hostages is mooted to align with the Samhain rising sun although modern interpretation places more importance on Tlachta (named after the goddess/druid Tlachta from Irish mythology who is said to have given birth to triplets on the site).

A Natural Cycle
Given the auspicious time of year, it was with more than a little disappointment that Friday night had become sodden with heavy rain which fell over Belfast, and as Kivi, Dee and I left the Odyssey Arena area there were girls queued for One Direction getting drenched in what can only be described as inappropriate clothing! I laughed as the rain bounced my helmet. I knew that the forecast was to clear as we travelled southwards towards Drogheda, and sure enough once we had filtered through the nightmarish traffic on the M1 the clouds thinned, if only slightly, but by now the bikes were caked in grime from passing lorries and other traffic. We arrived at Newgrange Lodge in the pitch black and cool night, relieved that a warm room had been booked, rather than having to faff over putting a tent up! I had a list of sites prepared that were within a 16 mile radius between Drogheda and Navan, but that was for Saturday, all we had to do was relax in comfort that evening. I was, though, slightly wearisome and perturbed; I can't put my finger on why - perhaps it is a natural cycle of things, perhaps it is the time of year and an inevitable slight 'shutting down' that matches the season, but it was an emotion in the back of my subconscious that I would not be able to shake.

View of the Boyne from Ardmulchan
We awoke to the continental style breakfast the next morning which was devoured with gusto, after which we were on the road, the bikes lighter without the panniers. Our first destination was via the backroads to Ardmulchan Church site, perched majestically overlooking the Boyne River and valley with Dunmoe Castle on the opposite ridge. The site at Ardmulchan is almost eery, but we clambered onto the site regardless, maybe is was the stillness of the Autumn air or that we were seemingly the only people for miles. The site has a long history; at some time before 1199 Ardmulchan was granted to Theobald Walter le Botiller, but by 1212 the manor had reverted to the de Lacy's and was retained by Hugh de Lacy until passing to the de Genevilles. This was at a time when defence of the Boyne was vital to the Normans in Meath.

Ardmulchan Church and Tower
A substantial motte was built, along with a church and several chapels rebuilt on pre-Norman foundations; the church tower - the site is somewhat dominated by this [bell] tower at the west end of the site - is still accessible to 1st floor level. It has been postulated that the tower may be as early as 13th or 14th century in date, with the rest of the ruins potentially dating to the 15th century. The views over the Boyne from the 1st floor windows were breath-taking - the trees had all begun turning shades of gold and crimson and there was still the remnants of the morning mist on the river surface. We attempted to see the old headstones – some of which are little more than worn stone stumps, weathered in the exposed position over centuries of Irish weather. 

I am something of a coffee fiend at the best of times but it seems a vital component, for me at least, of biking weekends are coffee stops, but I had begun to crave caffeine and I know Kivi and Dee were the same, so we stopped in Navan to search for a suitable café. There was, though, something of a lull with the realisation that many of the sites in the immediate area we had previously visited. However, the fort and museum at Millmount in Drogheda would be a new place to visit.

Millmount Fort (Drogheda)
The site that is visible today was consolidated in the 12th century when the invading Normans built a motte and bailey castle on the site. However, it is thought that the mound was a pre-existing neolithic passage tomb (something that the current museum is awaiting the results back from remote sensing to verify). In Irish myth, the pre-existing mound is cited as the burial place of Amhairgin mac Míled / Amergin Glúingel: in the Irish Mythological Cycle he was the bard and judge for the Milesians (in the Lebor Gabála Érenn the Milesians are the final race to settle in Ireland). He was appointed Chief Ollam of Ireland by his two brothers the kings of Ireland. A number of poems attributed to him are part of the Milesian mythology and the shamanistic early Irish poem "The Song of Amhairgin" which is part of the story of his entry into Ireland by the River Boyne is conventionally regarded as the first Irish poem.

Hugh de Lacy built the original fort around 1172, having been granted the Kingdom of Meath by Henry II, it is likely that this early motte had a timber palisade and castle, with a stone structure added later. The castle also formed part of the defences of the town during the siege of Drogheda during the Cromwellian invasion of Ireland in 1649. The fort's English defenders attempted to surrender to Parliamentarian troops under Oliver Cromwell but were massacred when they gave themselves up on 11 September 1649. The fort suffered considerable damage during the Irish Civil War; it was occupied by Anti-Treaty forces and on 4th July 1922 was shelled by the army of the Irish Free State. From the top of the mound the views to Drogheda are quite unbelievable, the panorama is both beautiful and almost slightly daunting, you can understand why it was chosen as a site for burial and subsequent fortification in the first place; the landscape simply stretches out to the horizon and at this time of year the greens are augmented with the golden Autumn colours.

The Road That Flanks The River
The afternoon had drawn in and the temperature had noticeably reduced – part and parcel of travelling at this time of year. Back at the Lodge we got ready to proceed to Navan for a curry, we took the twisting and undulating L1600 that flanks the Boyne to the town, the road is not lit which enabled a spectacular view of the sky with the sun setting and dusk quickly becoming night, the journey was glorious. Once the meal had been eaten and we were standing outside we realised that the temperature had fallen even further as it was a clear night this, however, ensured the journey home was by starlight - what a way to travel anywhere!

Termonfeckin (tower house) Castle
I awoke on Sunday with a heaviness that was, perhaps, a continuation of the weariness I alluded to earlier. I was glad when I was able to ride with the visor up and the helmet in half-face mode, the fresh and cool air rushed at my face and into my lungs, providing a form of rejuvenation. This sensation was heightened when we took, exclusively, the small 'B' roads to Termonfeckin which was quiet on this bank holiday Sunday morning; the quietness idyllic for both my frame of mind and this bike ride.

Termonfeckin is from the Irish Tearmann Féichín which means 'Féchín's refuge' (Féchín [of Fore] also known as Mo-Ecca, was a 7th-century Irish saint who founded a monastic site in AD665 in the village). The monastic settlement was plundered by Vikings in 1013, by the Ui-Crichan of Farney in 1025 and again in 1149 by raiders from Bregia (Meath). After the Anglo-Norman colonisation of Louth in the late 1100's, the village evolved into a medieval borough which was sufficiently important to have possessed a parish church (on the site of the present Church of Ireland) and two castles. Both of these appear to have been tower houses although only one is now left. The surviving castle is a 15th or 16th century three storey rectangular building which originally had projecting towers. However, it has been the subject of major alterations at some time in its history, particularly on the ground storey, these alterations are possibly the work of Captain Brabazon who is documented as having 'repaired' the castles in Termonfeckin in 1641. We were able to gain access from the keyholder and ramble and clamber about the ample ruins to our heart’s content. What is most surprising is that the interior ceilings are corbelled – which is the same building technique as the roof of the prehistoric passage tomb at Newgrange – even the little guard turrets at roof level are also corbelled. 

Having taken the 'B' roads and found them to be rather spectacular, we decided that this was a good course of action to continue with, Louth was turning into something of a revelation and we continued through mainly farmland to Dromiskin monastic site. As we parked beside the enclosure wall and gate the stunted round tower and ruined (more modern) church projected an unsettling 'vibe' - at least to me. The site is located beside a housing estate and everything seemed incongruous.

Dromiskin Round Tower
Dromiskin is from the Irish Druim/Droim Ineasclainn and the area seems to have developed around the religious settlement. The first monument to strike you is the stunted and rather stubby round tower, but it appears sturdier as a result. There is a ruined, more modern church that gave me a chill to look at, now it looks dilapidated and quite sad with it's barred and caged windows. The whole site has an uneasy feeling, for me it did not feel peaceful, it was slightly unsettling, as if the site itself is somehow angry about being largely forgotten. Usually I find sites such as these tranquil, and it affords some ruminative contemplation.

It is strange as the history of the site is long and quite extensive; the first presiding abbot was Lugaidh, son of Aengus mac Nadfraoch the first Christian king of Munster, who died c.515. The next recorded abbot was St. Ronan who died in 664. Áed Findliath (King of Ireland, son of Niall Caille), retired to and died at Dromiskin in approximately AD879. Congalach, son of Gairbidh, King of Conailli was slain in AD913 in the refectory of the monastery, after he destroyed the abbot’s house at Dromiskin, but the early Medieval period was not to be kind to the monastery; the constant plundering by both Viking and native Irish would destroy the Abbey and disperse the monks. Annudh macRuaire rampaged through the territory in 1043 and Dromiskin was destroyed. The ecclesiastical site was subsequently abandoned and the monks took refuge in the neighbouring Abbey of St. Mochta's. The site, for me, was altogether odd - as if it had no place in the landscape, although how much of that is due to the modern town developing around it I don't know. Maybe it was my mindset and perception rather than any architectural or planning issue, I was starting to get tired at this stage of the weekend and, in truth, was actually quite keen to get home, as if my mind and body had reached some form of natural 'conclusion' with instinct taking over.  

Kerlingfjǫrðr
The coastal route northwards seemed logical, they are enjoyable roads on a bike (provided the traffic is kind) and picturesque with a range of landscapes from mountains, to tree lined sloped to dynmaic ocean beaches. It would also take in the exceptionally quaint Medieval town of Carlingford - somewhere I find myself wanting to visit again and again. Usually thronged with daytrippers keen to take in the mountains, picturesque narrow street and plentiful Medieval remains, Carlingford can be quite an assault on the senses. But I was in a slight daze and struggled to engage with it on any level, bar the rumbling in my stomach a sign I should eat! The late autumnal dusk had settled over the place, made slightly darker by the low cloud - although this ensured temperatures were still clement.
The bikes at Carlingford (and King John's Castle in the background)
The name Carlingford is probably derived from two linguistic origins: the Norse Kerlingfjǫrðr, and the Irish Cairlinn. Carlingford was occupied in the 12th century by Hugh de Lacy after he commenced the building of the [King John's] castle on a strategic outcrop of rock, the settlement sprang up close to this castle and flourished. Carlingford's strategic position on the east coast of Ireland made it an important trading port. This trade led to its relative prosperity during the 14th, 15th and early 16th centuries; Carlingford received five charters in total (the first in 1326 by Edward II).  The increased trade encouraged a mercantile class to build in the area, the results of which can be seen today in the remains of The Mint and Taffe's Castle among others. I can remember be lectured on the importance of this class when visiting the town as part of my 'Medieval Buildings' fieldtrip for my archaeology undergraduate. 

After filling ourselves with food in Ruby Ellen's Tea Room, we commenced the journey northwards towards Newry and taking the Mourne Scenic Coastal Route to Belfast. The traffic became thicker and I grew more frustrated as a result, any Zen-like state of mind riding the bike gives me well and truly gone! With the clouds getting darker and the light fading fast the desire to get home increased in intensity. We live in a part of the world where we can, at time, be held hostage by the weather and seasons. I doubt there will be another weekend away on the bikes until Spring has sprung; maybe something connected to either Imbolc or Beltane?

Monday 12 October 2015

The ABR Historical Run

I had approached this day with much anticipation, it was the first run with other people outside my immediate circle that I had organised, enthusiasm, it seemed, was there for a day-tour on bikes going to see heritage sites. This theme is one that I now tend to follow, as I have said and written about before, an aimless ride can be enjoyable, but I tend to want a destination in mind - even if it is never reached. The day did not start off for me as planned, we (by "we" I mean myself, Nicola, Kivi and Aine) were behind schedule and then had to make a fuel stop, and I was acutely aware that everyone would be waiting for me at Carrickfergus Castle car park, indeed they were: not a good first impression! But I had the first site already planned, the Linford Barrows perched high up in the Antrim Glens. This was also the first time that my best friend and biking buddy had had our respective other halves as pillions together, it was a 'vibe' I enjoyed.

The Mythical Glens
The bikes parked near Linford Barrows overlooking the Glens
To get to the Causeway route[s] and Antrim Glens proper, first the ancillary towns along Belfast Lough have to be negotiated, although there are now some new roads that circumvent these, it still feels like something of a sacrifice and ordeal to get to the proverbial promised land. As I checked my mirrors, though, it was a sensation of liberation as well as sheer indulgence to see the staggered bike headlights, but them came the inevitable self-doubt and slight burden of responsibility; what if the sat-nav failed? This had to go right! As we ascended into the rolling mists of the glens though, I knew we were on the right path. Out of this gloom was the parking area for the Linford Barrows, their location in the mist and already enigmatic appearance seemed to add to an aura of myth and time travel back to a forgotten age.
The larger of the Linford Barrows
The temperature was cool, noticeably different from the coastal road we had come from and I regretted taking out my jacket thermal. I noticed I had also forgotten my hat and began to feel flustered; being under prepared is not something I like. However, we crossed the stile onto grass kept short by sheep grazing, but the tussocks of long bog grass were still plentiful. As we marched up the slope there before us were the 'barrows'. I was amazed at how deep the ditches still were, they seemed untouched. The system of monuments is surrounded by other earthworks, but the site has two main barrow-like features. The first noticeable element is that the ditches are on the interior; a usual sign that, like a henge, they cannot have been defensive. The more northerly earthwork consists of a circular bank, internal ditch and central platform. An entrance 2.0m wide leads through the bank at the east. The larger southerly earthwork similarly consists of a bank, internal ditch and central platform. A causeway 3.5m wide crosses the ditch  Although the early records stated that they were probably prehistoric, and even named as barrows, these earthworks are so perfectly formed that there has always been a suspicion that they are historic in date. They have external banks, internal ditches and near flat interiors. An undergraduate dissertation by Colin Dunlop had undertaken environmental analysis of cored and augured samples taken from the ditch of the larger earthwork. These samples provided a date ranging from 1022 to 1245 AD.

Onboard image taken travelling back down towards the coast
Overlooking the monuments is a [denuded circular] cairn of prehistoric date beside which are ‘braided hollow-ways’. Prior to the construction of the road through the valley in the nineteenth century these hollow-ways would have formed an important route between the coastal plain and the interior of County Antrim. The presence of the prehistoric cairn also probably gave credence to the assumption that the Linford Barrows were also prehistoric, not so it seems! Possible theories as to their use have been put forward, such as separate platforms for the proclamation and acclamation of a new king during inauguration rites.

We travelled over the sparse and almost treeless environment, the openness best illustrated by the winds that, on a rougher day, would probably be quite something to contend with. There was a bleakness to the landscape, albeit still beautiful, the colours seemed to meld into each other in shades of light green to beige. Once we had commenced the descent towards the coast, the views became more dynamic, thickets of trees gave way to more open sea views as the road began to twist down the side of the slope towards the sea edge. We were heading towards one of the small towns that litter the Antrim coastline, seemingly evenly spaced apart to act as convenient markers on any journey here. We were back on the main Causeway route and the temperature was beginning to rise as the sun hazily began to attempt to peak through the cloud cover.

Old Layd & Coastal Villages
Old Layd Church
We passed through the small towns to what I call the cliff and boulder fields that always seem to me to visually represent a prehistoric landscape, they rise almost sheer to the immediate side of the road and loom somewhat overhead. Our destination was just outside Cushendall; Old Layd Church. I had read up on the site, but nothing prepared me for how beautiful I thought it was. It is accessed by a tree covered descending path, after turning a ninety degree corner, the site opens before you with the burial ground sloping downwards to a gap in the trees that gives a stunning sea view. The whole ground level has been raised by centuries of burials, giving the church a 'nestled' appearance. A small babbling brook winds its way behind the ruined stone building, the noise of which simply adds to the atmosphere.

Holed Stone [Cross] at Old Layd Church
The site was founded as a medieval church, and there is a local tradition that it was a Franciscan foundation, this was a parish church valued at 20 shilling in the 1306 tax rolls, continuing in use until 1790. What I couldn't find in the research was reference to the two small stone square structures, one at the entrance and one at the same height in the break of the slope just further down the graveyard. Beside the first of these structures is a curious holed stone cross, I cannot be sure, but I couldn't help but wonder whether this is an earlier relic, perhaps predating the church. The church itself shows at least four phases of medieval and post-medieval remodelling; the west end contains a tower which probably provided residential accommodation for the priest, and as such has been interpreted as a dormitory.

After leaving the site we were travelling on the roads that I mentally most associate with the Glens section of the Causeway Coast run; the undulating landscape above Cushendall and Cushendun. From here the road rises on the sides of the slopes, sometimes with switchback corners thrown in to test ones technical competence; fortunately the Explorer manages to flatter me! Once through this green and wooded area of the Glens (which when travelling through I always have 'Castles Made of Sand' in my head for some reason), the landscape becomes more harsh and heath-like. I have travelled this road many times, and even on what appears to be a still day on the coast, the winds here can be strong. I genuinely didn't notice, my head was in its own space that riding the bike uniquely allows. We breezed through the Cushleake Mountains (to the north-east) and Carneighaneigh Mountain to the south-west before Ballypatrick Forest was nothing more than a green blur in my peripheral vision: our next destination was Bonamargy Friary.

The North Coast
Bonamargy Friary
Bonamargy is situated right by the roadside with a golf course built around the site, leaving it like an island of the past marooned within the modern landscape. The name is from the Irish Bun na Margaí meaning ‘end of the river Margaigh’. The friary was erected for the Franciscans of the Third Order, the site post-dates and took over the role of the earlier medieval parish from Culfeightrin. Historical research has suggested that the friary was built in the late 14th century so the late 1300’s, although there are phases of building works with the upper levels later. Although previously disused, it was by the late 18th / early 19th century the site was completely abandoned and left to ruin. At the west end of the church is a small holed cross believed to mark the burial place of Julia MacQuillan ‘The Black Nun’. The Black Nun’ was a recluse who is believed to have lived in Bonamargy, perhaps after it had been disused, and it is reputed that her last wish was to be buried near the entrance so that people would tread on her grave as a token of her humility, in folklore her spirit is said to still haunt the ruins. The land adjacent to the friary was the scene of a conflict that took place between the forces of Mac Quellan and those of Sorley Boy Mac Donnell, who encamped at Bonamargy, on the 4th of July, 1569.

Kinbane Castle
We were now on the north coast proper, a dynamic landscape sometimes battered by the Atlantic. Along this coast are a series of castles due to the strategic position they can occupy (it is also here that the Spanish Armada 'Girona' wreck was discovered). Accessed via a cliff path and a steep descent is Kinbane Castle. The name Kinbane is referred to in 1551 as: The 'Castill of Keanbaan' and it is from the Irish 'An Cionn Bán' meaning ‘the white headland’ with ‘bane’ pronounced [baan]. The castle has a spectacular position, the setting and now ruined remains are romantic, hovering over the sea and cliffs on their white protrusion. The castle construction has been attributed to the MacHenrys, later becoming a stronghold of the MacAlisters, a branch of the MacDonnells. A mid-1540’s date is likely for the construction of the castle and although it was reported and believed to have survived as a residence until the 18th century, test excavations in 2011 uncovered little artifact material later than 17th century in date, suggesting that the site would have been occupied for a relatively short period of time, approximately 100years or slightly more. But the key was obviously its strategic position and defensibility.

It seemed no sooner had we all put our gear back on, we were taking it off again, such is the density of monuments here, but with the low cloud cover the day was also humid and warm, I fussed over whether to leave my thermal lining in, then out, then back in again. The traffic had thinned on this section of coast road, towards our next stop; Dunseverick. The name Dunseverick is from Dún Sobhairce meaning ‘Sobhairce’s fort’ as it is thought it was initially used and first fortified as a promontory fort by Sobhairce. Sobhairce was, according to medieval Irish legend and historical tradition, joint High King of Ireland with his brother Cearmna Finn. The brothers divided the country between them, the border running from Drogheda to Limerick, and Sobairce ruled the northern half from Dún Sobairce (Dunseverick). The dates for Dunseverick’s initial fortification have been given as the 2nd millennium BC and it is widely attributed to 1525BC. There are further references in other annals to the sacking and raiding of Dunseverick by the Danish Vikings in AD870 and again in the 10th century. The O’Cahan family held the site from approximately AD1000 after which it became a manorial centre of the Earls of Ulster, a stronghold of Sorley Boy MacDonnell in the 1560’s, before the castle was captured and destroyed by General Robert Munro in 1642 and his Cromwellian troops in the 1650’s. If I am honest, the site was a little underwhelming, its position not quite as spectacular as Kinbane, its ruins not very extensive and despite the 3500 year old history of the place, we all knew that the next site was, perhaps, one of the most famous landmarks for this part of the world: Dunluce Castle. Perhaps we were blasé?

Dunluce Castle
The castle that can be seen today is largely 16th/17th century in date: the M’Donnells reconstructed almost the whole castle between the years 1593 and 1596. The enclosure itself, though, is older with the ‘first’ castle probably built in the late 1300’s, although the mainland adjoining the promontory was settled in the 13th century with the establishment of an Anglo-Norman manor.

Early medieval pottery was uncovered in a rock-cut souterrain during an excavation in the late 1920’s proving a much older origin for the use of the site. The place name also hints at an earlier [Early Christian] lineage;, Dunluce is probably derived from Dúnlios; there are two sections to this name, dún meaning ‘hillfort’ or ‘fort’ and lios meaning ‘enclosure’ or ‘ringfort’ with theories put forward that there was a promontory or other fort here before the Medieval period. Recent excavation also uncovered a whole town located next to the castle walls, and across the road are the ruins of (Dunkelisp) church that would, no doubt, have served that medieval community. The whole site has now become somewhat 'touristy', unsurprisingly. The car park is full of coaches and the fees for entry have started to climb; therefore we stood at the viewing rail on top of the cliff just behind the main castle. The craic was good, although my own curiosity means I will probably return at a later date to do 'the tour'.

The Cairn and Lough Neagh
Plan of Dooey's Cairn (Sites and Monuments Record - NIEA)
By now the temperature had started to drop, as had the light levels, but it had stayed dry and the mists had long disappeared. The perfect day for biking in October! Who needs sunny southern Europe at this time of year? For the first time our next destination was more than 20 minutes away, in fact Dooey’s Cairn (Ballymacaldrack) was approximately 40 minutes away. After turning onto the Ballymagarry Road we turned southwards onto the near arrow straight B62 Ballybogy Road; the road a metaphor for the rather flat and monotonous landscape. Dooey’s Cairn is delightfully situated beside a small thicket of mysterious looking trees, the stones that make up this kind of prehistoric monument always seem enigmatic.

Dooey’s Cairn is a Neolithic tomb (a single ended court tomb with forecourt) dating from c.3500-2000 BC. It is the best preserved court tomb in the Causeway Coast area consisting of a U-shaped forecourt that leads into a small stone lined chamber. Behind the chamber is a cremation passage, containing three pits, one of which held the remains of several individuals. This form of cremation passage is the only one of its type found in Ireland. During the excavations, archaeologists discovered various artefacts e.g. polished axe heads, flint arrows and decorated pottery. Fire-reddening of stones in the actual passage has been interpreted as cremation of bodies in situ. The 1975 excavation retrieved two radiocarbon dates from the cremation chamber, the first was 2990 +/-50 BC. The second from charcoal in the wall crevices gave a date of 3200 +/- 90BC. This was interpreted as extensive burning within the chamber c. 3000BC and the forecourt blocked approximately 500 years later. So this monument was used for at least over half a millennia.

I had had to miss out some sites that I had planned to include, time was simply against us, but the finale was always supposed to be Cranfield Church, on the shores of Lough Neagh as a peaceful and beautiful location to end the day. The journey there was, though, somewhat drawn out with my sat-nav taking us on the motorway towards Toome! We did eventually get there, but by this stage it most definitely was to be the last site. 
Cranfield Church Ruins

The name is from the Irish Creamchoill or Creamh Choill meaning ‘wild garlic wood’ and recorded in the 1306 taxation as Crewill. The church is supposedly dedicated to St. Coleman or St. Olcan. Although the Acta Sanctorum Hiberniae refers to tale of Patrick founding the church in Muckamore from which a spring flowed. This is then said to be beside the church of Creamchoill (Cranfield). It appears that there was some form of religious worship here, then, in the Early Medieval period. The parish is first referred to in annals as Cremc[h]aill in approximately 800AD. There is another reference to it in 1169 as Cremh-caille. The building on the site is the remains of the medieval parish church, difficult to date but perhaps mid to late 13th century in date. It is crudely erected, surprising given saintly associations. The holy well also contains amber pebbles said to have healing powers. In the idyllic location we reflected on the day, some things had not gone to plan, but then again this is normal for any journey, the key is not to get hung-up on mishaps or wrong turns, they are what makes the journey! For me it was the first time I had led anything like this, and I would again (if there was sufficient interest for it). 

Maybe I should start do this county-by-county?!