ABR Ireland Rally 2014

The weekend approached with a sense of anticipation, the weather was to be good (which is always a plus) and the Mournes area, on a nice day, is one of the most breathtaking landscapes you will see. We duly packed the panniers, topbox and tank bag with our packing more refined and light weight compared to the ABR Ireland Rally 2013. Travelling light, I think, is key to enjoying your journey but particularly apt for a motorbike journey. I cranked the suspension preload up as well as the damping two clicks to accommodate the pillion and panniers. We were off....taking the Saintfield to Downpatrick to Newcastle route. Once through Downpatrick, the roads are single lane “A” roads that are a thrill. We were also trying out pillion to rider communications for the first time and it was great to be able to chat as I drove; pointing out landmarks and wildlife. The Mournes came into view as we approached Dundrum, rising majestically in the landscape with a hint of mist over the taller peaks – the sunlight attempting to shine through it in shafts. We cut through Tullymore Forest park (mainly because I had forgotten the way to Meelmore Lodge). As we entered through a grey mock Medieval gateway, the trees that lined the road were stunning, I felt as though I was in Jurassic Park rather than an Irish planted forest park. Having said that, you could see the planted spruce further up the hills, but whoever thought of these trees for the roadway were geniuses. We stopped at the Ranger’s lodge and asked directions, he was a biker too and gave simple “turn left then second left” instructions that enabled me to find the campsite with no hiccups at all.

Meelmore Lodge

Since we were last there, Meelmore has had a spruce up – the main building painted and all the grass areas mown with those pleasing stripes that makes just sitting on the grass an inviting prospect. A few tents were scattered about the ABR plot and Heff and Flintock were there to greet us. We were staying in the lodge, getting the same room we did last year – there is something about your own hot shower in the morning[s] that is a comfort I like to maintain wherever possible. A few more bikes arrived, but the numbers were, at this stage, nothing to write home about. Watches were looked at, a bit of craic had, and then watches looked at again. Hunger was beginning to set in; fish and chips in Annalong were to be the dish of the day and at that moment, I couldn’t have asked for anything else!

We set off from Meelmore turning left onto the Trassy Road that became the Slievenaman Road, a single track of tarmac that twists and turns with the undulations of the landscape enabling you to throw the bike into the corners. On your left, shimmering in the evening sunlight, is Fofanny Dam Reservoir the road hugging the ‘shore’ line as it carves its path on the saddle between two mountains. As we continued on this road (which becomes the Moyad Road) Spelga Dam is on the right. The brown/green hues of the grasses and heathers on the mountain sides has a golden glow in the evening light, a sight to behold.

As we approached the coast from the mountains, dry stone walls delineate the fields, they are, though, a work of art in themselves beautifully created and even more exquisitely executed. We gorged ourselves on the much needed stoge the chippy had to offer, meeting up with more ABR’ers there. The return to the campsite was along the main roads, I think most keen to get a relatively early night ahead of the big run the next day. But on our return and into the early evening and darkness, more and more bikes arrived until there were 25 or 30 bikes parked at the site. A good turnout indeed! But something of a relief to find that more people had turned up to join the fun! 

The next morning started off with a fry-up breakfast, fuel (I justified to myself) for the day ahead. The main run was to take in both sides of Strangford Lough including the entire peninsula, a beautiful drive with some great roads if the traffic is clear, and as the sun had already started to get hot we all set of at 09:30. The first part of the ride was somewhat uneventful, heading towards Ballynahinch then Saintfield and Comber – basically on main roads to get us to the Lough where the run would begin proper. In Comber the traffic was at a standstill and I could feel the bike engine overheating without any movement. I flipped my visor up to try and get more fresh air, but this was an optimistic hope rather than a practical reality! We stopped in Donaghadee for a breather on the east coast of the Newtownards Peninsula ‘arm’ – the harbour waters were an assault on the senses shimmering against the blue sky, your eyes squinting in the light. I took off my back armour as it was starting to cook my back, sipping water and smoking a cigarette in the fast approaching midday sun.

We were soon off though, hugging the coast line and coast roads to Ballywalter and Ballyhalbert. The fresh and relieving cool sea air blew up onto the road from the Irish Sea as we travelled on single lane “A” roads punctuated with tree lined tunnels that eased the glare. Small coves and deserted sandy beaches came into view, not a single person availing of the turquoise blue waters and still hot day, although along the roadside there were occasionally people walking their dogs or men on bicycles dressed in wincingly tight lycra. We pulled in just outside Ballyhalbert in a car park beside one of the deserted coves. Another chance to catch ones breath. Having driven these roads many times in the past, I knew that from here on they were a genuine thrill, the surface (in the main) good with the roads sweeping curves, flat out sections as well as undulation changes a joy when riding a bike - or even in a car for that matter - they didn't disappoint - my tyres were biting into the surface and the heat of the day only served to increase the grip, a shudder through the rear end any time I applied the throttle as the Tourance obtained grip the bike almost putting down more torque than the tyre could cope with. The sea air continued to fill my nostrils, augmented by the coconut smell of the yellow blossoms of gorse bushes that seem to spring up on any wild land here, on this southern tip of the peninsula the roads were agreeably empty - a sharp contrast to the journey to get to the coast road, but a welcome reversal. We neared Cloughy and turned left from Main Street onto the Manse Road - something of a back road, this narrowed and had some loose stones in parts, but was slightly more challenging, but subsequently more rewarding for it. 


The South Ards Peninsula 
The Manse Road became the Ardminnan Road lined by traditional field boundary hedgerows that screened the fields behind. Birds occasionally darted out and then back on themselves as they either saw or sensed the bike coming. The hedgerows served to make many of the corners blind which added to the sense of excitement - the advantage of being in a pack is being able to see what the people in front are doing (their line and speed into the corner) so if I was unsure I was able to copy them. The destination was the Ballyquintin Road and a sudden turn off to the left over a cattle grid that is the entrance to Temple Cooey/Templecowey holy wells / church site. 

I have found it recorded and spelt both ways so either, I think, is acceptable. The site is believed to have been founded in the 7th century by Saint Cowey; according to tradition it was here that Saint Cowey performed his penitential exercises in the late 7th and early 8th centuries. The foundations of a church are supposedly where a small modern alter is located with the archaeological survey recording the site consisting of the foundations of a small church, several rows of stones and three holy wells. It has long been associated with St. Cowey with the site now a place of pilgrimage. The church foundations stand 0.4 -0.8m high & measure 5m N-S x 15.6m E-W internally with entrances in the north and south walls. Each well is labelled - the south one "wash", the middle one "eyes" & the north "drink". So we all stooped down to take a sip at the drinking section of the holy wells – it can’t do any harm! We followed the Ballyquintin Road round to the tip of the peninsula onto the Bar Hall Road for the short drive to Portaferry. Portaferry was heaving with a Viking Festival well underway. We parked among the trees just beneath the ruins of an old church: Templecraney. The church is contained within a roughly circular enclosure and is reported to be the site of a Medieval church. The place name evidence also suggests something older. 

The first element is teampall “church”, not used before the second millennium. The most likely second element in a church name is a saint’s name, but the most similar personal name here is a Crónán who was abbot of Bangor d. 668. Teampall Crannaí “church of the stake-fence”? from Crannach “wooden, something made of wood” (Muhr, 2004). We stopped to get a hot dog and soak up some of the atmosphere, the sun was clearly stronger than I thought - combined with the wind burn my face and head were starting to feel cooked! After a dander round the archery and other events, I saw a patch of grass that was located under some tall trees, the sun only peeping through - it looked exceptionally inviting and so I lay down in the shade and struggled to keep my eyes open. At that moment, I was perfectly relaxed almost in something of a Zen state. Those sorts of moments are good for the soul! Leaving the site in our cavalcade caused quite a few looks, especially from boys pointing at the bikes and smiling - a friendly wave to them the only cost.

We took the glorious Rowreagh Road towards Kircubbin, once out of Portaferry this road hugs the eastern shore of Strangford Lough, with sites dotted along the route; the Abbacy absorbed into a more modern house, Castle Hill motte and later towerhouse with associated Medieval church....but none of these were stops, we were heading straight up the coast towards Newtownards / Comber to head down the western shore of Strangford. For me, the western side has a different vibe to the eastern peninsula arm, I can't quite explain it, but it feels somehow more sedate and peaceful. Once out of the Comber traffic we turned onto the Ballydrain Road towards Mahee Island and Nendrum Monastic Site.

The road to Mahee Island is single lane with blind crests and corners, the hedgerow gaps occasionally giving glimpses to the blue waters of the Lough. At this stage the group was somewhat strung out due to traffic lights outside Newtownards. But it didn’t matter, I had been down this road many times and it is one I continue to return to and will no doubt in the future. You cross a causeway over the Lough that takes you onto Mahee Island itself, beware of cars coming round the blind corners though! A further causeway guarded by the 15^th/16^th century Mahee Castle leads you to the tranquillity of Nendrum, perched on top of a hill that gives superb views in all directions, the Lough here sheltered and flat calm. The monastery is said to have been founded in the 5^th century by St. Mochaoi and its abbots & bishops are recorded in the annals from the 7^th - 9^th centuries, in 987 the annals record that it was burned in a Viking raid. The site now consists of the ruins of a church, round tower, enclosures, buildings, graves, carved stones and a rare pre-Norman sundial. The site is surrounded by three concentric cashel enclosures. There are many burials within the inner and middle enclosures, some of which predate the church. We stopped here with several taking the opportunity to walk up to the site, although whether the sense of peace I seem to find here translated to others I am unsure. It was, though, here that the rear brake disc of a recently serviced KTM had come loose, the bike in question having to be ridden to Bangor for urgent repairs. So even here, there was a bit of drama! A tin of pears was opened by Derek....I can honestly say that they were the juiciest, sweetest and most delicious pears I had ever tasted....they quenched my thirst in the heat exasperated by wearing bike gear. 

Home from Daft Eddie's
With our mouths (if not souls) refreshed, we doubled back on ourselves out of Mahee Island but took a left turn onto the Tullynakill Road (this is the same route I have written about in Valhalla and the Fjörd. The road passes Tullynakill Church - the site that basically replaced Nendrum after her decline. The road here is, in the main, not even wide enough for two cars, but it plunges agreeably through trees that arch over the route, a pleasing rest bite from the sun. We turned onto the Ballydorn Road towards Whiterock and across the causeway to Sketrick Island and to Daft Eddies - guarded over by Sketrick Castle towerhouse. 

We pulled in with everyone immediately heading to get a drink....I think for some the sun combined with dehydration meant that one was sorely needed. We sat and chatted on the front veranda - apparently Michael Dunlop had won the Isle of Man superbike TT for BMW Motorrad (their first victory in 75 years). From Sketrick, we had planned to stop at Inch Abbey, Strangford and then Kilclief, but time was not on our sides as we had stayed at each previous stop much longer than expected. This meant that the journey back to the lodge was a bit of a blast through south Down. We flew through Strangford then to the Shore Road to Ballyhornan then to Ardglass following the coast to Dundrum Bay and Dundrum itself - passing the magical and imposing Dundrum Castle on the right (this is a site well worth a visit if one has time as it remains one of the finest Anglo-Norman castles in Ireland and one of the very few with a round tower or keep). 

It was nice to stretch the bikes' legs....and stretch them I did as the pace was increased on this last section with the sun starting to dim and set in front of me.....backlighting the Mournes as they peeped over the tops of hedges. Again the group was a bit strung out but I certainly didn't mind I was in a zone all to myself, my mind at ease and at peace as I leant into the corners and bends. Once back at Meelmore, we lit a fire in the same spot we had the year before - the craic was 'ninety' and there was plenty of talk about future runs;  a possible Summer Solstice run as well as, of course, ABR Ireland 2015!